The history of Marylebone: Royal hunting grounds, pleasure gardens and Georgian terraces

Marylebone holds a special place in the hearts of many Londoners, whether it is the lovely boutique shops, the renowned restaurants, pubs and cafés, or simply that inevitable question – where on earth does the name ‘Marylebone’ come from?

Above: Bryanston Square Garden

Medieval Marylebone
Marylebone was originally associated with the village of Tyburn, named after the River Tyburn that formerly ran from Hampstead down to Oxford Street and is now underground. In the 15th century the villagers relocated from the area now known as Oxford Street, to further north, which created the track that evolved into Marylebone High Street. At this time a new church and parish of St Mary’s was created and the small community renamed themselves St Mary’s by the river Tyburn, which over time evolved into St Mary-by-the-Tyburn and finally St Mary-le-bone.

Royal hunting grounds
The former Manor House became Henry VIII’s hunting lodge in the 16th century and today’s Regent’s Park is what remains of the former hunting grounds. The Manor House was later used by Edward VI, Mary I and Elizabeth I, but by the time of the Civil War, Charles I had mortgaged the lands to pay for the war and by 1791 the manor house had been demolished. The site was later used for stables, which were converted and became the popular Conran shop and French restaurant Orrery.

Pleasure gardens
During the 17th century, Marylebone was still an isolated village on the outskirts of London, but in 1650 it gained a name as the location for the popular Marylebone Gardens, on the site of today’s Devonshire and Beaumont Streets. Marylebone Gardens became notorious for entertainments, including cock-fighting, bear and bull baiting, and boxing matches.

By the 18th century it had become a rather dangerous venue populated by thieves, so ladies and gentlemen were provided with an escort to get to and from the City Road safely. It later regained a good name and became known for its cakes and tarts, as well as concerts and balls. In the 1770s Thomas Arne, composer of Rule Britannia, even conducted an orchestra in the gardens.

Georgian Marylebone
The western part of Marylebone was acquired by Sir William Portman - Lord Chief Justice to Henry VIII - in the 1530s, which forms the foundation of today’s Portman Estate. The eastern part of Marylebone was bought by the Duke of Newcastle in the 18th century, which became the Portland Estate and forms what we know today as the de Walden Estate. These two estates were responsible for much of the building of Georgian Marylebone, including Cavendish Square in 1718; Harley Street in the 1730s; Portman Square in 1764; Baker Street in 1755 and Manchester Square in the 1770s.

Marylebone scandal
Marylebone has also had its fair share of scandal and was the location for a couple of particularly noteworthy events of the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1820 a group of revolutionaries, led by Arthur Thistlewood, met in a mews house in Cato Street, giving it the name of the ‘Cato Street Conspiracy’. The group planned to storm the home of Lord Harrowby in Grosvenor Square and kill all the members of the Cabinet, but the plan was thwarted and many conspirators were caught.

In the 1960s Marylebone was the location for another scandal, this time in Wimpole Mews, the home of Stephen Ward, where Christine Keeler was staying. It was the beginning of what later became known as the ‘Profumo Affair’ involving Keeler and Secretary of State for War, John Profumo. Their liaison became a national scandal because Keeler was also involved with Yevgeny Ivanov, attaché at the Soviet Embassy, which at the height of the Cold War became a serious cause of concern for national security.

Famous names
Marylebone has long been a popular place to live, and before Harley Street became known for the medical profession it was home to a number of notable residents, including artist J.M.W. Turner and Prime Minister William Gladstone. Baker Street was not only the address of fictional character Sherlock Holmes, but was also the home of Prime Minister William Pitt the Younger. Montagu Square has been the home of author Anthony Trollope, and in the 1960s was where Ringo Starr rented a flat, and had many visitors, including Paul McCartney and Jimi Hendrix, and in 1968 Lennon and Yoko Ono moved in while they were recording The White Album.

Marylebone has much to offer the visitor and resident, whether you’re having dinner or shopping along the High Street, visiting the Wallace Collection, having tea at the Landmark Hotel, or looking for an idyllic flat in town.

From country retreat to busy London neighbourhood: the history of Islington

Today, Islington is a highly sought-after address offering the shops and restaurants of Upper Street, plus boutiques, bars and cafes in the surrounding streets, and all within a short distance from the centre of town. The architectural gems of Islington, including Georgian terraced rows and Victorian semi-detached villas, are also a powerful draw-card for residents.

However, it was only a short time ago that Islington was seen as a country retreat and was in fact nicknamed ‘London’s Dairy’ because of its association with providing milk and cheese to the residents of London.

Anglo-Saxon and Tudor Islington

During the Anglo-Saxon period, the area was known as Gislandune, meaning Gisla’s Hill, and by the time of the Domesday book in 1086 it was recorded as Iseldone, or ‘lower town’ in relation to its position to today’s Highbury. Due to its location to the north of the City of London, it became a natural stopping place for those travelling from the north. By the 16th century, the area was still largely fields and it became a popular place for building large country mansions with gardens and orchards. Henry VIII used to hunt near-by and Queen Elizabeth I often visited Islington when coming to stay with Sir John Spencer at Canonbury House. Throughout the Tudor period Islington became a popular stopping point for royalty travelling in and out of London

London’s Dairy

Apart from the large country houses, Islington was primarily occupied by farmers and drovers bringing their livestock and goods to the London markets, especially to Smithfield. It was due to this association with cattle that Islington became the location for a number of dairies, providing fresh milk and cheese to Londoners.

‘New Tunbridge Wells’

During the 18th century Islington also became associated with fresh water springs, with the discovery of a spring at Sadler’s Wells, previously known as The Islington Spa and also ‘New Tunbridge Wells’. The area became known for its entertainments, with theatres, tea gardens, pubs and the spas. During the 1730s George II would visit with his daughters, Princesses Amelia and Caroline, and records show that during the height of its popularity as many as 1,600 people took the waters in one day. However, by the late 18th century, the spa fell into disrepute.

19th century transport and houses

The 19th century brought about much change in Islington as the population of London began to spread further outwards and the introduction of the Regents Canal in 1820 brought more and more people to this once rural village. New houses began to appear throughout the early to mid-19th century and with the introduction of the railways in the 1860s and the underground railway at the turn of the 20th century, Islington soon became covered in streets of new houses.

Famous names

Throughout its history, Islington has been a popular address for writers and artists, with a long list of names having called it home. Mary Wollstonecraft lived in Newington Green in 1784 where she opened a school for girls; children’s author, Kate Greenaway lived on Upper Street in 1852; author of Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, Douglas Adams, lived in Duncan Terrace during the 1980s; and author George Gissing and playwright Joe Orton both lived along Noel Road.

Other famous residents include George Orwell, Evelyn Waugh, Louis MacNeice, Benjamin Britten, Thomas Carlyle and Nancy Mitford. Charles Wesley was curate at St Mary’s Church during the 1730s and his brother John Wesley spoke at the church a number of times; Charlie Chaplin lived in Arlington Way as a child; and former Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli lived in Islington and went to school in Colebrook Row from 1808.

Today, Islington continues to be a very popular address with a vibrant high street, along with beautiful houses and quiet residential streets.

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Napoleonic soldiers, garden disputes and famous residents: the history of Edwardes Square, Kensington

Edwardes Square is one of the oldest squares in Kensington and today is one of the most sought after addresses in the borough.

The square, named after former landowner, William Edwardes, Lord Kensington, began in 1812, but it wasn’t until around 1827 that all the houses were completed and occupied.

It has been home to a long list of celebrity residents, including writer, George Du Maurier; author, Leigh Hunt; actress, Elizabeth Inchbold; and writer and commentator, G.K. Chesterton.

Napoleonic ties?

Edwardes Square was developed by Louis Leon Changeur, but before building got under way, a false report circulated around the suspicion that Changeur was an infamous Napoleonic agent, Frenchman, Colonel Charmilly. The rumour was later refuted, but the damage was already done and for a long time it was believed the houses in Edwardes Square were being built to house invading Frenchmen from Napoleon’s army.

Development and building

The design of the square has been attributed to Changeur, but also to David James Bunning and prominent London surveyor, Samuel Pepys Cockerell. Changeur was declared bankrupt in 1812 and the development passed to Daniel Sutton, who was also one of the first to move in, firstly to No.6 Earls Terrace in 1813 and later to No.25 Earls Terrace where he passed away in 1842.

Earls Terrace was the first section completed, which included the unusual layout featuring a carriageway and porters lodges at either end. The eastern side of the square was completed next, followed by the west and finally the southern stretch, built as mews and named ‘South Edwardes Square’ (this was later rebuilt during the 20th century.)

‘To be seen to be admired’

In 1814 the houses were described as only needing ‘to be seen to be admired, for the style and neatness of their completion, the beautiful diversity of the views, the easy access to and from town and above all, for the mild air’. In the 1830s, writer Thomas Carlyle described Edwardes Square as ‘a beautiful grass-square in the centre; houses small but neat’.

In 1819 an Act of Parliament was passed to regulate the lighting, watching (security), watering, cleansing and planting in the square. This allowed the residents of Edwardes Square to create a happy, safe and clean place to live. Strict rules were applied to households, including a fine of five shillings for those who failed to sweep and clean the footpath in front of their house before 9am and there was also a fine of £5 for ‘suffering swine to wander upon said footways and carriageways’.

Garden dispute

The central gardens were laid out in 1820, complete with gardener’s lodge in the Greek revival style. However, in the 20th century, the central gardens became the focus of a bitter legal battle between the residents, the council and the new owners (after Lord Kensington sold the estate). After years of disputes the future of the gardens was secured in 1912 when a court appeal was successful for the residents Garden Committee. The residents celebrated by having a bonfire in the square, along with fireworks, and all the houses in the square were lit up with electricity or fairy lights.

Famous names

Along with those listed above, Edwardes Square has a long list of prominent residents, including artist Agostino Agilo, who also designed the central gardens; author and historian, Goldsworthy Lowes Dickinson; comedian and actor, Frankie Howerd; Italian poet, Ugo Foscolo; artist and writer, Sir William Rothenstein; and many others.

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Victorian home in the heart of South Kensington: the history of No. 1 Cresswell Gardens

Cresswell Gardens was one of the last 19th century terraced streets to be built in Brompton. Constructed on the site of Cresswell Lodge, this house (No. 1) has been the home of Lady Gray and Henry Tufnell Gray-Campbell, as well as generations of independently wealthy women, including two spinster sisters from Costa Rica.

Today, this impressive late Victorian home, situated in the Boltons Conservation Area, has been renovated to a very high standard and offers the latest electronic management system, underfloor heating, and air conditioning.

The Gunter’s and Cresswell Lodge

In the 19th century, large sections of South Kensington were owned by James Gunter, most remembered for his famous Gunter’s ice cream parlour in Berkeley Square (responsible for Queen Victoria’s wedding cake). Much of the Gunter Estate continued as market gardens through to the 1850s, at which time James’s grandsons, Robert II and James II, began building development.

However, the location of today’s Cresswell Gardens remained the site of a country house: Cresswell Lodge. It was only in 1875 that Robert Gunter II agreed to the development of the site of Cresswell Lodge with prominent Kensington builder, John Spicer; who died before development could begin, so the project passed to his son, solicitor G.J. Spicer. Original plans, dated 1883, show the builders were Messrs Matthews and Rogers and it was also possibly going to be named Chilmarsh Gardens.

Early residents

The houses along the western side of Cresswell Gardens were completed in 1885 and designed by architect, Maurice Hulburt in the popular late Victorian Queen Anne Style, featuring strong red brick and terracotta.

The first resident to move into No. 1 Cresswell Gardens was a Miss Kemp-Welch, but she did not stay long, as by the early 1890s the house had become the home of Henry Tufnell Campbell, grandson of Sir Henry Bethune, first Baronet from Kilconquhar, Scotland.

Lady Gray and Henry Tufnell Gray-CampbellThe 1891 census reveals 33 year old Henry Tufnell Campbell was a stockbroker and married to 25 year old Ethel Eveleen, and the young couple were in the house with three live-in servants.

Ethel Campbell was the daughter of Lady Eveleen Smith-Gray and the sister of James Maclaren Stuart Gray, the 20th Lord Gray. Her brother passed away, in 1919, and Ethel became the 21st Lady Gray. In 1920, Ethel and Henry changed their name by royal licence to become Gray-Campbell.

Three generations of women

Henry and Ethel lived at No.1 Cresswell Gardens throughout the 1890s, but by the turn of the 20th century it had become the home of widowed Catherine Phibbs from Ireland.

The 1901 census shows Mrs Phibbs was 80 years old, of independent means, and she was in the house with her 40 year old daughter, Edith, and her 20 year old granddaughter, Theodora. The three generations of women were in the house with four live-in servants: a cook, butler, lady’s maid and house maid.

Costa Rican spinster sisters

By 1909, No.1 Cresswell Gardens had become the home of two spinster sisters from Costa Rica, Maria and Luisa Montealegre. The 1911 census shows Maria was 56 years old and Luisa was 54, they were of independent means and were in the ’13 rooms’ with three live-in servants. Maria passed away in 1913, while Luisa continued in the house, but by the outbreak of World War I she started to rent out rooms in the house.

Cresswell Court Hotel and flats

It was during the 1930s that change came to the large Victorian house, with drainage plans in 1937 revealing it became ‘Cresswell Court’ flats. During the 1940s the flats were advertised with rooms ‘beautifully furnished; sunshine garden view...priced from two guineas.’

After World War II the house was transformed again and it became the ‘Cresswell Court Hotel’. Throughout the late 20th century, visitors to the hotel ranged from high ranking military and even a professor of chemistry. In the 1970s, the house changed again and became five self-contained flats. 

The final chapter in the story of the house occurred in the early 21st century when it was transformed back into a single family home, as it had been over 100 years earlier. Today, No.1 Cresswell Gardens has been meticulously refurbished, blending historic architectural features and modern interior design.

* Farleys are currently selling No.1 Cresswell Gardens

Asylums, hydraulic power and one of the largest London mansions never lived in: the history of Kensington Court

Today, Kensington Court is a striking enclave of Victorian red brick houses (pictured, below) ideally situated opposite the entrance to Kensington Palace. The houses were some of the last constructed in Victorian Kensington, built on the site of one of London’s most notorious Victorian white elephants – the grand palace of Baron Grant.

17th century country houses
Prior to this time the area of today’s Kensington Court had been the site of two large country houses – Colby House and Kensington House –belonging to the Colby family from the 17th century. However, by the early 19th century, Kensington House had become a lunatic asylum and Colby House was a boarding house for women. By the 1860s, the two houses and surrounding gardens were being sold for building land, although it wasn’t until 1872 that the plot was purchased by Baron Albert Grant.

Entrepreneur and speculator – Baron Grant
Baron Grant is believed to have acquired his title from Victor Emmanuel I, but he was actually born Albert Gottheimer in Dublin. Grant has been described as an entrepreneur, as well as an unscrupulous speculator, with records of great success, along with great failure leading to bankruptcy. He became MP for Kidderminster in 1865, but in just a year was in exile in Europe after large financial losses on the stock market. By 1870 he was back in England and once again investing in property, foreign investments, and he even bought The Echo newspaper.

‘Pretentious and frightful’
It was during this period of prosperity that Grant decided to build himself a large palace in Kensington. In May 1873 he commissioned architect James Knowles Junior (who also designed Tennyson’s house in Sussex) to design a grand house in the French style. The house was constructed between 1873 and 1875, although the interiors weren’t completed until 1876. By the time it was finished, Grant’s enormous palace was scorned and described as ‘rather out-of-date’ and ‘pretentious and frightful’. The house also had extensive gardens, with an orangery and glasshouses, as well as a skating rink, ornamental lake and ‘an American bowling alley’. However, as early as 1874 Grant was again facing financial difficulties and he also lost his parliamentary seat for voting irregularities. The house was completed in 1876, but Grant was never to live in it, as almost immediately he had to sell it. Six years later, the large palatial house had to be sold off piece-by-piece and the land divided into building plots.

Queen Anne Style Kensington Court
By early 1883, developer Jonathan T Carr, most remembered for his work in Bedford Park in Chiswick, was preparing the area for new building. He divided it into 77 plots and commissioned J.J. Stevenson, a well-known Victorian architect particularly popular for his designs in the ‘Queen Anne Style’. Kensington Court is particularly noteworthy for its early allowance for services to be provided to each house, with space under the roads made for gas, water and hydraulic mains, as well as space for future electricity supply.

Terracotta, turrets and decoration
Building began in Kensington Court in 1883, with Jonathan T Carr, his brother Richardson and JJ Stevenson directly responsible for the eastern side, today’s Nos.3-15 and 22-25, and a section in the central area. The remainder of the plots were sold freehold and owners could commission their own architects. This led to slight variations in completed houses, while the favoured style was the popular Queen Anne Style, with red brick and terracotta, as well as turrets, external decoration and motifs. In particular, No.1 was bought by Mrs Anne Marie Lucena, who commissioned Stevenson to build ‘Chenesiton House’ in 1883-4. It features ornate ironwork, decorated hoods over windows and strong gables. Neighbouring No.2 Kensington Court (pictured, above right) was bought by Athelstan Riley and designed by TG Jackson. It also features strong decoration, including the unique bay window topped with a sculptured group of sea monsters in terracotta. Nos. 1 and 2 Kensington Court were converted into the Milestone Hotel in 1985.

Residential hydraulic power and electricity
The remainder of Kensington Court was designed and built, between 1884 and the early 1900s, by various architects and builders as commissioned by freeholders. Some of the last sections completed were Roxburghe Mansions (No.32) in 1896-7 and Cornwall Mansions (No.33) in 1902.

Kensington Court is particularly noted for its early provision of hydraulic power to drive lifts, and a specially built pumping station was built on site in 1884 by EB Ellington’s London Hydraulic Power Company. It was the first use of hydraulic power provided for domestic use in Britain. Along with hydraulic power, Kensington Court was also known for the Kensington Court Electricity Company, established in 1886, with a specially built power station built in 1888, which can still be seen in the north west pedestrian section near Kensington High Street.

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The Salvation Army brings disorderly conduct to Chelsea in the 19th century

Cheyne Row is most remembered as the former home of celebrated writer, Thomas Carlyle, but just across the street lived another celebrated character of the 19th century, philanthropist and founder of the Salvation Army – William Booth.

John Todd - builder developer
The Grade II listed house in Cheyne Row (pictured) is situated in one of the oldest streets in Chelsea, but unlike its near Queen Anne neighbours, this house was built on the western side, which had continued as open ground through to the mid 19th century. The house was constructed in 1849 by builder developer, John Todd, who took the end of terrace house as his own home. The 1851 census records John Todd in the house, aged 34, with the occupation of ‘builder’ employing 24 men. He was in the house with his wife Ann and their six children, aged between one month and ten years old, along with two live-in servants. John Todd appears to have been a very successful builder, as within ten years he was living in a larger house in Milner Street and described as ‘builder employing 72 men and 10 boys’.

Alfred Todd – decorator and draughtsman
John Todd continued to own the house, renting it to a number of tenants, but by the time of the 1871 census it had become the home of Todd’s eldest son, Alfred. The records show that he was 24 years old and was working as an assistant decorator and an insurance agent. He was in the house with his wife, Emma and one general servant, 18 year old Dorcas. Ten years later, Alfred and Emma Todd were still living in the house, but by this time Alfred was described as a ‘draughtsman’ and the couple had four children; Alfred, George, Alice and Winifred. However, within eight years the house transformed from a family home into something a little unusual.

William Booth – founder of the Salvation Army
In 1889, the house was recorded as a Salvation Army Training Depot. The parish rate books and electoral registers show that William Booth, the Christian preacher, philanthropist and renowned founder of The Salvation Army, was responsible for the house. He is believed to have lived in the house during this time. At the time of the 1891 census, the head of the house was a Captain in the Salvation Army, Chris Bell, along with his wife, Sarah and their daughter Lillie. Also in the house at this time were Lieutenant William Anderson and five cadets: Fred Preece; William Symms; Henry Sykes; Charles Popham; and James Blunt, all of whom were in their 20s (except James Blunt who was just 19 years old) and their occupations were listed as ‘preach’.

‘Disorderly conduct’
It appears that despite good intentions, the cadets in the Salvation Army did not live quietly in Chelsea. There are a number of accounts in The Times newspaper in 1889 of police incidents involving members of the Salvation Army from the house in Cheyne Row. These included ‘wilfully obstructing the public footway with preaching; and another causing a nuisance with ‘loud singing and clapping of hands’. Another incident involved 15 members of the army accused of ‘disorderly conduct, causing a crowd to assemble, and refusing to disperse...whereby the thoroughfare was obstructed and a breach of the peace rendered probable.’ The house did not remain a training depot for the Salvation Army for very long, as by 1894 it had become ‘St Vincent’s Orphanage’ with mistress, Sister Mary Francis.

Minnie Hackney’s lodging house
By the early 20th century, the house changed once again and it was recorded as the home of Miss Minnie Hackney ‘landlady of boarding house’ and the house had become a lodging house. During this time it was the home of a variety of residents from a ‘physical instructress’ to spinster sisters ‘living on their own means’. However, at this time the house was divided into separate accommodation and in the other part of the house was German author, Gustav Glaser and his Canadian wife, Catherine. Gustav wrote a number of books on ‘magneto and dynamo electric machines’.

Renowned author and publisher for children
By the time of the outbreak of World War I in 1914, the owner and occupant of the house had changed and it became the family home of publisher and writer, Frederick Joseph Harvey Darton. F.J. Darton began his career in the family firm of publishers, Wells Gardner, Darton & Co. and in particular became renowned for both writing and publishing books for children. Today, he is still remembered for his work, Children’s Books in England (1832), as well as writing for Encyclopaedia Britannica and a chapter on children’s books for the Cambridge History of English Literature.

Chesterton Humberts are currently selling this end of terrace house along Cheyne Row in Chelsea.

The history of Castelnau, Barnes: French Huguenots and Victorian villas

Heading down towards the quiet residential area of Barnes in south-west London is a road that takes you from Hammersmith Bridge, past the London Wetlands Centre, and many Victorian and Edwardian houses. It was first known as Bridge Road for its connection to Hammersmith Bridge, but today is known by the more unusual name of ‘Castelnau’.

Farmland and bridges
Prior to the building of the road in the 19th century, the entire area was fields and farmland and the only access to Barnes was by boat along the Thames or by foot across the common. The building of a new bridge from Hammersmith to Barnes was agreed in 1824 and the foundation stone was laid by the Duke of Sussex, brother of George IV, in 1825.

It was at this time that the Hammersmith Bridge Company also bought up the surrounding land to build a new road giving access to the bridge. The first Hammersmith Bridge, designed by William Tierney Clark, was completed in 1827, along with the new Bridge Road - ready for houses to be built.

French Huguenots
The name ‘Castelnau’ originates from former landowners, the Boileau family, French Huguenot refugees who settled in Barnes after leaving their old family home, Castelnau de la Garde, in France. As the new bridge was being constructed, Major Charles Lestock Boileau was also building himself a new country home - Castelnau House - and once the bridge was completed he also began to build new properties along Bridge Road.

Victorian building spreads
The first building completed along Bridge Road was Castelnau Villas, designed by Henry Laxton, today’s numbers 84-122 and 91-125 Castelnau. It was also at this time, in 1842, that The Boileau Arms opened and around the same time Major Boileau built Castelnau Row, Castelnau Place and Gothic Cottages. It was during the 1840s and 50s that vast sections of Castelnau and the surrounding fields began to be covered in new streets and new houses, including Castelnau Terrace and Castelnau Cottages, completed by 1851.

Bazalgette and Castelnau
By the 1880s much of the area was developed, and by 1887 the first Hammersmith Bridge was replaced by the current bridge, designed by the renowned Victorian engineer, Sir Joseph Bazalgette. In 1889, that Bridge Road was officially renamed ‘Castelnau’ to honour Major Boileau who passed away in January that year.

Architectural diversity
Today, Castelnau is a popular residential address and features a great mix of architectural styles, with original early Victorian terraces of the 1840s and 50s, along with later Victorian and Edwardian villas, as well as a selection of ornate Arts & Crafts style homes.

* Chesterton Humberts currently have a five-bedroom, semi-detached home on Castelnau for £3.5 million ( above right).

Sir Winston Churchill and The Rolling Stones: the history of Hotham Hall - Putney

Hotham Hall is tucked away in a quiet residential street of Putney, and was first built as a community hall called ‘St Mary’s Hall’ in 1913. This now converted hall was formerly the location for a variety of concerts and meetings, including performances by the world-famous Rolling Stones and The Who and was also the location for political meetings addressed by former Prime Ministers, Sir Winston Churchill and Sir Anthony Eden.

The railway and Hotham Villas
Up until the mid-19th century large parts of Putney were still open fields and farming land, but with the opening of the railway through Putney in 1844, it soon began to expand into a booming London suburb. The small village by the banks of the Thames was transformed by this easy access to the centre of London and new houses began to appear across the farming fields. It was at this time that Hotham Road was initially laid out and first named Hotham Villas Road for the eight large detached villas that were built here at the time (between today’s Charlwood Road and Gamlen Road, where Hotham Hall and Hotham School are today).

The Putney Velodrome
With the expansion of The Metropolitan District Railway (today’s District line) in the 1880s, Putney saw another boom in building development as it became easier for people to commute into London. Building continued in Hotham Road, but on the southern stretch, between today’s Earldom and Erpingham Roads, was the first cement cycle track in England – the Putney Velodrome. It was the headquarters of the Putney Athletic Club and also had additional facilities for tennis and bowls. It was first used in August 1891 and was an immediate success, but the desire for new building development was too strong and the last cycle meeting was held in August 1905, when the track relocated to Herne Hill.

St Mary’s Hall
In 1911, the land where Hotham Hall is now located was donated to St John’s Church by Blanche and Elma Grace Miles for the building of a public hall. The new hall was designed by Douglas Wells and was opened as St Mary’s Hall by local magistrate, Mr Samuel Samuel in 1913.

Winston Churchill and Anthony Eden
The new hall was used for a variety of public meetings and community events, and it was in the 1930s that politician and later Prime Minister, Winston Churchill addressed an annual meeting of the Primrose League, where he spoke about the future of India. The following year, another renowned British politician and later Prime Minister, Anthony Eden addressed a meeting in support of the Putney By-Election candidate, Marcus Samuel (nephew of Mr Samuel Samuel).

The Rolling Stones and The Who
Along with political meetings and community groups, St Mary’s Hall was also the location for music concerts and in 1963 it was the location for a performance of the now iconic, The Rolling Stones, as part of their first UK tour. The Rolling Stones were supported by The Who, who again played at St Mary’s Hall in 1964 when they were supported by The Tremeloes.

‘Some of the best contemporary design’
By the mid 1980s, St Mary’s Hall had fallen into disrepair and by the 1990s it had been purchased for redevelopment. It was completely redesigned into nine luxury ‘loft-style’ apartments by The Raven Group. It was renamed Hotham Hall and new residents moved in from 1997 when it was said to be ‘some of the best contemporary design you are likely to come across.’

* Chesterton Humberts currently have a three bedroom flat available for £1,125,000 in Hotham Hall on Hotham Road, Putney, London.

Medieval Canons, fairytale elopements and celebrity homes: the history of Canonbury, Islington

Canonbury in north London has been a prime area as far back as the Anglo-Saxon period and during the Elizabethan period was the location for a love story like something out of a fairy tale. Canonbury manor house has formerly been the home of author and philosopher, Sir Francis Bacon, as well as writer, Oliver Goldsmith. Today, the area of Canonbury has become a highly sought-after residential address with Georgian terraced rows and Victorian villas.

Bishops and Canons
The manor of Canonbury can be traced back to before the Norman Conquest when it was in the hands of the Bishops of London. It later passed to the de Berners family who, during the 13th century, granted it to the manor of the Canons of St Bartholomew’s Priory. It became known as the Canon’s Burgh and over time changed to ‘Canonbury’. Canonbury manor house and tower were built by the last Prior, William Bolton, in 1532, but a few years later Henry VIII dissolved the priory and passed it to his chief minister, Thomas Cromwell. After Cromwell’s beheading in 1540 it reverted back to the Crown.

Fairytale elopement from Canonbury Tower
By the late 16th century the manor was sold to a wealthy cloth merchant, John Spencer, who was later knighted and became Lord Mayor in 1594-5. It was during this time that Canonbury Tower became the location for the fairytale story. Spencer’s daughter, Elizabeth, fell in love with the penniless Lord Compton, who of course her father disapproved of, so Elizabeth eloped with her lover by being lowered from the tower in a basket. The young couple were banished from her father’s house, but he was tricked into reconciliation with his daughter by Queen Elizabeth I, who requested he sponsor the child of an impoverished couple, who turned out to be his own grandson. Lord Compton ultimately inherited Canonbury Manor when his father-in-law passed away in 1610 and in 1618 was created 1st Earl of Northampton.

The writers of Canonbury House
From this time the manor house was leased out and from 1616 to 1625 it was home to the Lord High Chancellor, as well as philosopher and author, Sir Francis Bacon. During the 17th and 18th centuries Canonbury Manor House was let as separate lodgings and was home to notable residents such as encyclopaedist, Ephraim Chambers; author of Rip Van Winkle and The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Washington Irving; and in 1762-4 it was home to writer, Oliver Goldsmith. By the 18th century, the Tudor manor house and tower were in a state of disrepair and a new house was constructed – although the tower survived. The tower was partly restored in 1907 when the King Edward Hall was built alongside it and today it is Grade II* listed.

Georgian and Victorian Canonbury
Building development began to spread across the fields of Canonbury during the late 18th century, with the first row of houses built by Thomas Bird in 1760. Canonbury Square was started in around 1800 by Henry Leroux, with the earliest houses built along the north west section. The development of the New North Road divided the square, but building continued and homes were still being constructed by Richard Laycock during the 1820s.

Building continued across Canonbury during the 19th century with terraces along Canonbury Lane and Compton Terrace, but by the 1820s large villas also began to appear. The types of houses varied further with smaller cottage-style homes, including Canonbury Terrace (later renamed Alwyne Villas) completed in the late 1820s.

Canonbury quickly established a reputation as an exclusive enclave, situated on rising ground near the New River. The Victorian period saw further development, including Canonbury Park, Canonbury Grove, as well as building in the area which came to be known as ‘The Alwynes’. The name Alwyne and Compton originate from landowner, Lord Alwyne Compton.

Celebrity Canonbury
Canonbury has long been a popular address and it has been the home of a number of notable residents. In particular, many writers have found their way to this part of north London, including Evelyn Waugh, who lived at No. 17a Canonbury Square in 1928-30, and who later leased the house to writer Nancy Mitford. George Orwell lived at No. 27 Canonbury Square; composer, Benjamin Britten lived at No. 8 Halliford Street; and architect, Sir Basil Spence lived at No. 1 Canonbury Place. It has also been the home of the sister of Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell along with Duncan Grant, as well as film-maker, Kenneth Griffith and the first female head of MI5 and author, Stella Rimington. More recently Canonbury has been home to actor Leslie Forbes, comedian Alan Davies and actress Cate Blanchett.

Chesterton Humberts currently have a number of properties available in Canonbury, including:
Spencer Place, Canonbury, Islington, London | £1,395,000 | 4 bedroom house 
Mildmay Road, Islington, London | £749,950 | 2 bedroom house 
Canonbury Park North, Canonbury, Islington, London | £575,000 | 2 bedroom flat

The ‘country club in a garden’: the history of Chatsworth Court, Kensington

Chatsworth Court was constructed in 1935 and was promoted as ‘completely equipped and up-to-date modern flats’. It has been the home of a number of notable residents, including high-ranking military, as well as nobility and aristocracy, and it was also the home of Raymond, Cecily and Edward Shackleton, children of explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton.

Early Pembroke Road
Pembroke Road was first developed during the early 19th century, when building developments were appearing across Kensington.  The early houses along Pembroke Road (of which only Nos.29-33 still survive) were primarily built by local Kensington builder, Stephen Bird, between the 1820s and 1840s. It was originally part of the Edwardes estate, formerly the largest estate in Kensington, covering over 250 acres. The name of Pembroke originated from the Edwardes family connection with Pembrokeshire in Wales.

Up-to-date modern flats
It was 100 years later that Chatsworth Court appeared along Pembroke Road. It was designed by architects H.F. Murrell and R. M. Pigott, who were responsible for a number of similar blocks across London, including Ovington Court (1929-30) in Knightsbridge and Malvern Court (1930-1) in South Kensington. When completed, Chatsworth Court was promoted as a ‘country club in a garden’, with facilities including tennis and squash courts, a swimming pool, restaurant and optional maid services. The new flats also offered the latest in home conveniences such as electric clocks, internal telephones, heated towel rails and ‘water-softening plant [to give] clear, soft water for toilet purposes’.

High profile early residents
The first residents moved into Chatsworth Court in 1936 and by 1938 the London Directory recorded early residents included Marquise de Bonamour, Lady Ellen Palmer and Lady Raeburn, as well as high-ranking military men, Lieutenant-Colonel Gaskell, Lieutenant-Colonel Bayldon and Colonel Langstaff.

The Shackleton family
Amongst the early residents were the children of Antarctic explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton: Raymond, Cecily and Edward. The 1938 Directory reveals eldest son, Raymond Shackleton was at No. 83 and at the same time his sister, Cecily was at No.118. An announcement in The Times in 1940 also places youngest son, Edward, later Baron Shackleton, at Chatsworth Court with his wife Betty. In 1934 Edward Shackleton organised and took part in the expedition to Ellesmere Island and later went on to become Wing Commander during World War II. After the war, Edward became MP for Preston and rose to become Minister of Defence for the RAF in 1964-67 and Leader of the House of Lords from 1968 to 1970.

Screenwriters and record labels
Other notable residents of Chatsworth Court have included H. Fowler Mear, screenwriter for films such as Lord Edgeware Dies (1934) and Scrooge (1935) and some of the first Sherlock Holmes movies, including Sherlock Holmes’ Fatal Hour (1931) and Murder at the Baskervilles (1937). At the same time Chatsworth Court was also home to Nixon Hilton, who established Nixa Records, later becoming Pye Nixa, the second company to release LP records in Britain and later distributed records for Petula Clark, The Searchers and The Kinks during the 1950s and 60s.

Chesterton Humberts currently have two flats available here:
Chatsworth Court | £779,950 | 3 bedroom flat
Chatsworth Court | £399,950 | 1 bedroom flat